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Walking in Harlem





The Netherlands
Monday November 3rd, 2003
Walking in Harlem
I'm seated in the Grande-café Brinkmann a large cafe, in the centre square of the small town of Harlem, a 10 minute train ride from the Central Train station of Amsterdam. The past 17 hours is somewhat of a blur. I woke sometime around 2:30 am in my Vancouver apartment unable to sleep. At 6am, I decided it was OK to get out of bed. I didn't really want to be late - It'd taken me 29 years to finally get off of North American soil; except for a short stint on Maui, which doesn't really count as Hawaiian culture has been so drown and diluted by our friendly neighbors to the South.

So, off to the airport I went. Lucky for me I had a send off from my parents who just happened to be in town for a few days – to help me paint my fairly newly inhabited abode, and happened to be in the city for a week or two while I was to be away. They dropped me at the international terminal and away I went. First to O'Hare airport in Chicago, this place brought to mind bad memories – a few months ago I'd rushed hurriedly to this airport from a training session in a Chicago suburb. I arrived just in time to find out I'd be waiting for 6 hours, followed by a 4 hour flight followed by an unexpected overnight delay in Calgary followed by a morning flight to a half-over long weekend in Vancouver.

My flight to Chicago was pretty quiet, I did exchange a few words with the woman who sat to my left (I had the luxury of an aisle seat). After the flight we bumped into one another at a food court so we agreed to dine together. Of all the people on my flight I had to 'hook up' with a 47 year old, obese, mother of 2 who's favorite topic of conversation was her job, and to be honest only 12 hours later, I can't recall what else and I can't recall what her job was. Despite my shockingly shallow attitude towards her - I did enjoy company.

In an attempt to eat healthy I ordered a salad. I figured being in Amsterdam I'd be taking advantage of some rich food, namely cheese and chocolate – my two favorite things. So, back to the salad. It was a pasta salad bathed in an oily dressing, did I say bathe? I meant drowned in an oily dressing, and topped with a pound of grated cheddar cheese. Oh well I suppose I can start early – although cheddar isn't exactly what I had in mind.

My flight from Chicago to Amsterdam was uneventful. To be honest it's a bit of a blur as the lack of sleep was really catching up to me by this point. First I read through the in-flight magazine, OK I lied, I looked at the photos in the magazine. My eyes got sore so I closed them for a while. I tried watching a film, but the sound was buggered so after a few attempts I gave up and did some reading. I was sitting by the window next to a fellow from San Francisco, he was a member of the Kronos Quartet.

My first taste of Europe was Amsterdam-Schipol Airport, in particular – the incredibly long taxi. The taxi from the run way to the airport was longer than most of the domestic flights I've been on. After getting off of the plane I was struck by the efficiency and friendliness of the Dutch. They all seemed to speak perfect English. Secondly I was struck with the exit signs. Yes thats right, from the moment I landed until the moment I left I often found myself staring transfixed at the signs above most doors indicating the exit. Here in Canada we have those drab exit signs above most doorways in commercial buildings, you know the back lit red signs? Well the Dutch have quite a bit more fashion and design sense than us North Americans – I grouping us with the Americans on this one. The exit signs are really cool! They are all of more or less the same design theme, all are green with a white drawing showing a stick man – in stride - headed for the door.

After being checked through security – in a friendly and efficient manner, unlike my experiences in the United States, I headed to an information booth where I was able to determine where to go for the train to Amsterdam Central Station. The train system here seems really efficient, one doesn't have to be concerned with catching a train 'on-time' as they are so frequent that there's always certain to be one not far behind the last. The trip from the airport to the central station was brief. Within a few minutes I found myself on another trail headed for Harlem. The weather was typical of late fall, dark and overcast. Just as the train pulled into the Harlem station, the rain began to fall with the same ferocity common to some of the winter rainstorms that hit Vancouver in November. My suitcase rolling, bouncing and rattling along behind me I made haste to an information centre where I found shelter from the rain, a friendly woman who supplied me with a map and directions to my hotel.

After my instructional on the route to my hotel I hurried down the street in the downpour for my hotel – a ten minute walk.

Tuesday November 4th, 2003
I'm seated in a small square at the University of Amsterdam. In one corner sits a statue of Vassius and Barlacus whoever the hell they are. Perhaps I'll Google them when I get home. I wonder if I can find a job here? – oh boy. I could access skiing in the Alps ohh. Ski trips would abound from basically anywhere in Europe, places are just closer together here. Or, perhaps the plan should include getting a place in Fernie or Nelson, or travel with some work abroad. Hoping to drum up some leads for work in the next few days.

I've been reading a mountaineering book by Joe Simpson reflects a great deal on decision making with respect to risk in the mountains. One fall that he describes was a very similar to one that I had at the base of Liberty Bell in the US – except in Joe's case both members of the climbing party fell to their deaths ) okay so mine was a bit different! I was not on the North Face of the Eiger. His discussion makes me question my own lack of drive with respect to the Mountains – I've lost a lot of the passion for the mountains in the past few years. I feel as though I've only just discovered that this is more to do with fear than I'd originally thought – I'd actually never given it thought – I'd just assume that I was interested in other things – but I've never felt the same passion about any of my “new” interests.

I'm enjoying the anonymity of traveling by myself. I think that a single (alone) person is more approachable and I guess a lone person also has a greater tenancy to speak to strangers. I'm somewhat surprised to see that many people speak English here and I've had no absolutely no trouble with communication.

The weather here has been amazing for November, aside from the downpour I experienced upon my arrival its been beautiful cool and clear. I certainly could have gotten away with a little less with respect to all of the extra clothes I've been lugging around lately.
Back to the here and now – I seem to be in another world all of the time lately. I must say though – at this very moment I am enjoying another little square and the comfortable wooden bench. I can overhear the chatter of University students who've just come out from a class to smoke cigarettes and sip on coffee – much the same as any other place. Aside from the people, I see that the trees around me in this little enclosed courtyard still have some of their fall colors on display. A few of the trees appear to be dangerously large for the tiny little square. So far I've taken very few photos.

The few photos have consisted mostly of bicycles. The bicycles here are gorgeous, and far more numerous than anywhere I've seen. Strangely so different from what I'm used to, it is as though the entire concept of what a bicycle 'is' is different from that of North Americans. Most are very old, black in color, few gears (if any). The rider sits very upright, rather than the hunched over position provided by most mountain bikes and road bikes. Not a sole wears a helmet. I wonder why? It's as though they've come to the realization that it is a form of transport and nothing more, there is no need for it to have specialized components for light weight or fancy gearing etc. Perhaps it is more simple than that maybe the parts for these standard bicycles are easier to come by. Aside from the inanimate bicycles, I'm also enamored by all of the beautiful girls I see riding bicycles, dressed to the nines, pedaling effortlessly, cheeks glowing flushed by the cool November air. The difference is also exemplified by the attire that is most often worn. Absolutely no-one rides around in spandex or some derivation thereof, instead they are all wearing the clothes that they wear in their day to day life. The attention to style here is much more acute than that of western Canadians. Here everyone is in the latest of formal clothes, the women ride bye in their long flowing overcoats, scarf flapping behind. Everyone wears leather dress shoes rather than the North American staple of “sneakers”. These shoes have visual appeal as well as a nice 'clip-clop' sound when worn across the stone covered walkways and alleys.

Its fun to listen to the Dutch language as it is spoken. Lots of guttural 'aks' and other throaty noises. Then there are the occasional English interjections, for instance I happened to be walking in the same direction as a group of 4 women about my age, they were nattering away in Dutch when out of the blue came a “how you doin'” ala Joey Tribiani from the television show “Friends”.

Now I'm sitting atop this massive structure. The Nemo is an interesting piece of architecture. One end is shaped like the stern of a massive tall ship of days past. It straddles a highway that passes underneath it and into a tunnel taking it under a body of water from the North side of the city to the south. I can't recall seeing this type of architectural freedom in Vancouver any time recently. I struck up a conversation with the fellow next to me (I was sitting outside on a pick nick table that overlooks the city). An Italian who's studying architecture. He's here for a week to study the local buildings. I note the skyline is very low, few buildings obstruct the view allowing the nearby churches and cathedrals to dominate the view. I miss the mountains of my beloved North Shore.

Its 1030 at night, I've decided to try and find a bite to eat. I've wandered the alleys of Harlem until I discovered a small inexpensive “Turkish Falafel Place”. I ordered my food and sat down. The proprietor of the place quickly got into a very animated conversation with the woman that I assumed was his wife. I'm not sure, but I imagine they were speaking in Turkish if there is such a language. Actually I think they were speaking in Punjabi. In the end I received my food without any problems, and the discussion seemed to at least subside undoubtedly it would pick up when I left.

The only thing that I've come to dislike about Holland is the apparent number of cigarette smokers. Perhaps the Dutch are not as bad as the French in their fervor for smokes. This evening I sat down to diner and found an ashtray on the table. Not used to this, I found that despite the fact that there wasn't anyone next to me blowing smoke in my direction I still found that it hung in the air from past customers, my food even had a faint air of Rothman's. I suppose I'm nasally sensitive?

An interesting thing happened today. I bumped into the fellow who sat next to me on my flight from Chicago to Amsterdam. He is part of the Kronos Quart, I think I mentioned him earlier. Anyways, Hank was waiting for a bus at the Amsterdam Central Station. I later discovered that the quartet is in fact very renowned. Hank plays the Viola, he seemed like a nice fellow. He was on his way to a famous Violin shop while I was on my way to the Van Gogh Museum. We sat on the bus and discussed Violins, and Biotech.

Today I've been having trouble deciding whether the anonymity of traveling alone was outweighed by the occasional loneliness. Sitting alone in coffee shops can be nice, particularly if I'm occupied with a book or a pen and paper (and something to put onto it). Wandering into a square or plaza and finding a bench on which to sit and observe the people and surroundings is enjoyable for the time being. At diner time and after diner is when the loneliness sets in. For some reason I seem to notice more people in groups or as couples engaging in conversation. I feel 'old' sitting by myself, writing in a journal or sticking my nose between the pages of a book.

Next I went to the Scheepaart Museum to see the Amsterdam, a ship that was used to transport between Amsterdam and Asia in the 1700's. This ship was built in 1749, I believe that this type of ship is referred to as an East India, built by the Dutch East India Co.


Wednesday November 5th, 2003
Arose at a decent time today – 730am. Ran downstairs for the continental breakfast of a boiled egg, bread with cheese, ham and finally a bowl of cereal, washed down with coffee and a glass of OJ. Apparently traveling doesn't have a negative affect on my appetite.

I checked out of the fine establishment I'd been staying for the past couple of days and dragged my wheeled suitcase along the cobblestoned streets for the ten minute walk to the Harlem train station. I left the town of Napoleon's brother and jumped aboard the train bound for Amsterdam Central. Arriving at the station I walked directly to the Barbizon Palace; a deluxe 5 star hotel across the street from the train station.


In the hotel lobby I happed upon David Doucett, my coworker from Quebec who was checking in just as I arrived. After the formalities of saying hello and checking into our shared room we toured the town.

Our tour consisted of a great deal of walking and a boat/canal tour which was well worth the 8 Euro. Both of us were somewhat fatigued – myself from countless nights with little sleep and David from having just gotten off of the plane. We ended up visiting more than one café during our day of wandering. Despite our young age we managed to avoid the café's that served indulgences such as the non-caffeinated smoke-substance for which both Amsterdam and my home town of Vancouver British Columbia are so well known for. Caffeine consumption is high at the moment – due to the rigorous sleepless schedule as of late.

David and I returned to the hotel in the late afternoon giving ourselves time to shower and suit up in time to meet with our “Partners for Success” from Micronic, it's US and European Distributors. It was an interesting group, I made a valiant effort to meet and speak at least briefly with each of them however for me there are always a few people that seem somewhat difficult to approach. Jim Mortimer, the director of Micronic North America a former big-wig from Fisher Scientific, his wife, a key purchaser for Fisher Scientific was there too. Howard “Howie” Epstein and his wife as well as Cheri from USA Scientific made up the American Contingent.

I think that I stayed up till 10 or 11pm before heading upstairs to sleep. The following day was composed of a long bus ride to the Micronic Office/Manufacturing Headquarters where presentations were made, and the facility was viewed. During this time we never underwent any product specific training. Honestly speaking although it was by all means worth while – David and I were the only reps present at the “Partners for Success” gathering. All of the others were either managers or company directors.

Not sure if I've said this yet – I think that the image that will remain vivid in my mind is the sight I saw so many times over and yet could never tire of. A young Dutch woman rides bye on a bicycle of the older traditional dutch style, she's dressed formally; a long coat, a fur collar along with a colorful scarf hanging elegantly from her neck. Ker cheeks flushed in the cool clear November air. At times the bike was equipped with a rack on which her friend dressed in a similar manner would sit sideways. They'd buzz past chattering away in their incomprehensible Dutch.


Thursday November, 6, 2003
Lilyschtat
As mentioned (did I mention that?) today was the tour and training of Micronic in Lilyschtat which is about 1 and a half hours by bus from the city of Amsterdam. Along the way we saw a number of large windmills and of course acres and acres of flat farm land. I don't know what crops the farmers grew but the land is so flat. Its like being on the prairies again. I imagine that the soil is fairly rich but because the land was only recently diked (Lilyschtat in particular) and the water was pumped out! This area was once under the Black Sea. In fact Amsterdam itself is protected from the high sea level by a series of dikes and Lochs.

The Micronic family (as they so often referred to themselves as) was the epitome of what I would have come to expect from the Dutch. Its almost as though they've taken many of the best things about their neighbors and incorporated them as their own original ideas. Strict attention to order and detail which can only be taken from the Germans. The formal yet sheik sense of style which must come from the Italians or could it be the Belgians?

The president of Micronic (My Chronic tee hee) wore a navy pinstripe three piece suit with a white shirt, red/blue tie. Grey hair covered a tan face with gray wire rimmed glasses.
The office design was highly modern and clean.

The day seemed to go bye quite quickly which was fine by me. I was in constant arousal by the tidiness of the spaces and people around me.

Both David and I were the younger attendees to the meeting. Although a number of the employees at Micronic were fairly young. The day went by quickly and before we knew it we were being escorted back to the hotel from which we went on an evening canal tour that included a gourmet meal. Lots of wine etc. David and I accompanied Ian Mortimer and his wife. Given the age difference between us it was a little uncomfortable but I think that they had a good time.


Friday November 7th 2003
Lectures and a round table discussion ended around 330pm. David and I both felt a little like we didn't have much to offer. Micronic products had only just been released to us and we'd yet to have many (if any experiences with them.). After the meeting we took a rest, the wandered and shopped. We went for a Beer with Paul and Clive from the USA this was interesting as they were both older than David and myself but somehow seemed to be somewhat reserved in there approach to the bars and having a good time. Fraidy cat Americans.

“Stairway” is the Brand name of this Dentist who quite his job to play the guitar for.






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